| First
and second gears is best engaged by cradling the gear
lever in a back-hand fashion as shown! This way
the hand works naturally against the return spring. The gear lever
returns to neutral position by itself. |
 |
|
The seven
steps for gear-changing up: |
| 1 |
Reach the
correct speed.
If you cannot hear the sound of the engine, read the
speedometer (or rev-counter) to change at the correct time.
|
| 2 |
Position
your left hand on the gearlever. For engaging first
and second gears, place your hand in a back-hand
fashion, as shown. Don’t use fingers or grab the knob
tightly. A smoother change is achieved by feeling the
gearlever and guiding it with the palm of your hand. |
| 3 |
Push
down the clutch.
The faster the
better and all the way down.
|
| 4 |
Right foot
off accelerator.
Fast, a split second after ‘clutch down’.
|
| 5 |
Shift the
gear lever with a little pause in neutral, to achieve a smoother
change. |
| 6 |
Press
accelerator and bring up clutch.
Apply sufficient power (the lower the
gear the more power) and a pause half-way up, as the clutch engages (most
importantly in lower gears, as these are very strong).
|
| 7 |
Keep
accelerating. Repeat procedure in each gear until cruising speed has
been reached. |
|
The
process for gear changing down is basically the same
as for changing up, except that the correct speed is reached
by braking, not accelerating. There's
only one difference: There is no need to
change gears before turning a corner or
stopping. When the lower speed has been reached, select the matching
gear! Downhill or in slippery conditions a lower gear may be
selected to assist the brakes! (See also Section 24).
|
 |
When
driving uphill add extra speed before changing gear. An
automobile loses speed during the gear change process, as soon as the
clutch is depressed.
Downhill
it is the opposite - gear change can be done at a lower speed.
Gravity increases speed naturally. (Take-off may even be OK in second
gear, depending on the gradient). |
When
driving downhill, you may still need to brake, during the
gears changing process! The brake and clutch have no direct
link.
Problems
with gear changing may involve one or more of these:
| 1.
Trying to change at the incorrect speed. This happens often when
driving uphill. Because speed is being lost, learner drivers
rush and select the wrong gear. |
| 2.
Selecting the wrong gear. Fourth gear is very often engaged
instead of second, when not handled in the back hand fashion, as
shown above. |
| 3.
Dropping the clutch on engagement. Many learners don’t hold
the clutch at the halfway point on engagement. This results in a
jolt, especially in first and second gears. The root cause of
this problem may stem from not keeping the ankle firm and/or not
bending the knee when bringing up the clutch.
|
| 4.
Keeping the accelerator depressed, after the clutch has been
pushed down. The engine will rev unnecessarily. |
| 5.
Lifting
the foot off the accelerator and then pressing down the clutch.
The engine is suddenly starved of petrol. |
|
Lifting off the accelerator
when the vehicle is in motion (decelerating) must be done very
slowly (especially in the stronger gears 1st and 2nd.) The engine responds
without a jolt. Decelerating is an important
part of slowing a vehicle and/or coming to a smooth stop. (For
gear changing in automatic vehicle see Section 24.)
Smooth
gear
changing adds
pleasure to the joy of motoring.
|
|
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Our
information could vary in your part of the world. We recommend
you use above information in conjunction with a professional
driving instructor.
Road
Safety by Dieter Fischer 2001 - Learner Driver Hub 2020.
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